The government official in Kochi looked at my permit application with barely concealed amusement. "Lakshadweep? You know it's not Goa, right?"
Three weeks later, standing knee-deep in turquoise water so clear I could count the fish around my feet, I understood why Lakshadweep remains India's best-kept secret. These 36 coral islands scattered across the Arabian Sea offer everything the Maldives promises – pristine beaches, world-class diving, and overwater bungalows – but at prices that won't require selling a kidney.
The Permit Process (Don't Let It Scare You)
Yes, Lakshadweep requires permits for all visitors, but the process is simpler than people make it sound. I applied through SPORTS (Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports) three weeks in advance, providing basic documents: passport copy, photos, and travel itinerary.
The restriction exists to protect the fragile ecosystem and local culture. Only 10 islands are open to tourists, and visitor numbers are capped. This means no overcrowding, no construction chaos, and pristine environments that put most tropical destinations to shame.
Agatti: Your Gateway to Paradise
Agatti Island hosts the only airport in Lakshadweep, and the 70-minute flight from Kochi is part of the experience. The aircraft banks over endless blue, revealing tiny coral atolls that look like emeralds scattered on silk.
The lagoon at Agatti is perfect for beginners to snorkeling and kayaking. I spent my first evening walking the entire perimeter of the island, watching local fishermen repair nets while frigate birds wheeled overhead.
Bangaram: The Crown Jewel
If Agatti is your gateway, Bangaram is your destination. This uninhabited island is accessible by speedboat from Agatti and offers some of the most pristine beaches I've ever seen. The water here defies description – every shade of blue imaginable, from pale aqua in the shallows to deep sapphire where the reef drops off.
Diving Paradise on a Budget
Lakshadweep's coral reefs rival anything in the Maldives or Caribbean. The water visibility regularly exceeds 40 meters, and the marine life is abundant and diverse. Diving costs $8-12 per dive compared to $60-100 in the Maldives.
My 10-day Lakshadweep trip cost $400 total, while Maldives resorts start at $300+ per night. The restrictions that keep crowds away also preserve an authenticity lost in many tropical destinations. Here you'll find marine life that exists nowhere else, cultures that have adapted to island life over centuries, and natural beauty that feels genuinely untouched.
