The Andaman Islands ruined me for other beach destinations. After three weeks island hopping through this remote archipelago in the Bay of Bengal, I can't look at crowded beaches the same way. Where else can you have world-class diving, bioluminescent waters, and beaches that literally glow at night – all while being one of maybe a dozen tourists around?

Most people hit Port Blair, rush to Havelock (now Swaraj Dweep), snap some photos at Radhanagar Beach, and leave. They're missing 90% of what makes the Andamans special. This guide will show you how to properly island hop through paradise – from the tourist favorites to the restricted gems that require special permits.

The Ferry System: Your Lifeline Between Islands

Understanding the ferry system is crucial. After missing three ferries in my first week (and spending nights in some questionable places), I finally cracked the code.

• Cheap (₹50-400 depending on distance)
• Reliable schedule (weather permitting)
• Book at Phoenix Bay jetty or online
• Locals get priority – tourists can book 3 days in advance

• Expensive (₹1,000-2,500)
• Faster and more comfortable
• AC with assigned seats
• Book online or through hotels

The Golden Rules: 1. Morning ferries are most reliable 2. Seas are calmest October to May 3. Always have a Plan B accommodation 4. Government ferry schedules change – verify the day before

Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep): Beyond Radhanagar

Yes, Radhanagar Beach is stunning. Yes, it's worth seeing. But Havelock has so much more.

Beach No. 5 (Vijay Nagar Beach) is where I spent most mornings. The sunrise here beats Radhanagar any day, and the beach shacks serve masala chai that'll ruin you for Starbucks forever. During low tide, you can walk for kilometers on exposed coral flats (wear shoes!).

Elephant Beach requires effort but delivers. Take the 2km jungle trek from Radhanagar rather than the boat. You'll likely have the trail to yourself, spot wild elephants (if lucky), and arrive at a snorkeling spot that's actually worth the hype.

• **Budget:** Jungle Lodge (₹800/night, basic but clean)
• **Mid-range:** Symphony Palms (₹3,500/night, beachfront)
• **Splurge:** Barefoot Resort (₹8,000+/night, eco-luxury)

• **Discover Scuba:** ₹4,500
• **Open Water course:** ₹25,000
• **Fun dives:** ₹3,500 each

Best sites: Johnny's Gorge, The Wall, Aquarium. I saw mantas, reef sharks, and a turtle cleaning station all in one dive.

Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep): The Quiet Alternative

Neil Island is Havelock's chill younger sibling. Smaller, quieter, and in my opinion, more charming. You can cycle the entire island in three hours.

Natural Bridge at Laxmanpur Beach is touristy but time it right (low tide at sunrise) and you'll have it to yourself. The rock formations look like nature's architecture experiment.

Bharatpur Beach has the best snorkeling on Neil. Rent gear from the shacks (₹200) and swim out 100 meters. The coral gardens are pristine, and I counted 47 fish species in one session.

Sir Hugh Rose Island is Neil's secret. Most tourists don't know you can visit. Hire a fishing boat from Sitapur Beach (₹2,000 for the boat) for a half-day trip. Completely uninhabited, pristine reefs, and the kind of beaches that make you question why you live in a city.

Ross Island: The Ghost of Empire

Now called Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island, this former British administrative headquarters is haunting. The jungle has reclaimed most buildings, with massive trees growing through ballrooms and roots strangling churches.

Visit in the late afternoon when day-trippers leave. The deer come out, peacocks call from ruins, and you can explore in peace. The Japanese bunkers from WWII are hidden but findable – look behind the commissioner's residence.

North Passage Island: The Restricted Paradise

This requires an extra permit (beyond the standard RAP), but it's worth every bit of bureaucracy. Only 20 people allowed per day, and most days they don't hit that limit.

The island is uninhabited except for a forest guard post. The beaches here are what I imagine the Maldives looked like before resorts. The snorkeling is insane – I followed a school of barracuda for 20 minutes, swam with three turtles, and spotted my first leopard shark.

• Apply at DSS Office in Port Blair
• Need passport, regular permit, and ₹500
• Process takes one day
• Valid for day visits only

The Ultimate 2-Week Island Hopping Itinerary

• Cellular Jail light show (touristy but moving)
• Anthropological Museum (understand tribal sensitivities)
• Arrange permits and ferry tickets

• Radhanagar for sunset
• Dive/snorkel Elephant Beach
• Night kayaking in bioluminescent waters
• Beach hop the east coast

• Cycle the island
• Natural Bridge at low tide
• Sitapur Beach for solitude
• Day trip to Sir Hugh Rose

• Lalaji Bay Beach (better than Radhanagar, fight me)
• Jungle trek to Merk Bay
• Village life experience

• Pristine snorkeling
• Completely deserted beaches
• Bring everything – no facilities

• Recover and fly out

This is intense. You'll be exhausted, dehydrated, and covered in salt/sulfur. You'll also have seen things that exist nowhere else on Earth.

The Indigenous Tribes: Respect and Reality

The Andamans are home to some of the world's last uncontacted tribes. This isn't a zoo – these are human beings fighting for survival.

• Tribal areas are strictly off-limits
• Photography of tribals is illegal
• Don't buy "tribal tours" – they're illegal and harmful
• The Jarawa Reserve road is for transit only – no stopping

I saw Jarawa members once while crossing their reserve. The urge to stare is strong, but remember – they didn't choose to have a road through their home.

Monsoon Magic: Why Off-Season Rocks

• Accommodation prices drop 50%
• Beaches are empty
• The rain creates waterfalls everywhere
• Surfing at Butler Bay is actually good

Just avoid July-August when it's properly mental.

Budget Breakdown: 2 Weeks Island Hopping

• Accommodation: ₹800-1,500
• Food: ₹400-600
• Transport: ₹200-300
• Activities: ₹500-1,000

Total for 2 weeks: ₹30,000-40,000 ($400-500)

• Accommodation: ₹3,000-5,000
• Food: ₹1,000-1,500
• Transport: ₹500-1,000
• Activities: ₹2,000-3,000

Total for 2 weeks: ₹80,000-120,000 ($1,000-1,500)

Essential Island Hopping Tips

• Dry bags (ferries get wet)
• Reef-safe sunscreen (coral bleaching is real)
• Snorkel gear (rental quality varies)
• Power bank (electricity isn't 24/7 everywhere)
• Cash (ATMs exist only on major islands)

• Sandfly repellent for beaches
• Antihistamines (jellyfish stings)
• Oral rehydration salts
• Basic first aid kit

• Andamans are conservative – beachwear for beaches only
• Many restaurants don't serve beef/pork
• Alcohol availability varies by island

The Bioluminescence Secret

Here's something tour operators don't advertise: several beaches have bioluminescent plankton. Havelock's Beach No. 5 is reliable, but the real magic happens at Neil's Sitapur Beach.

Go on a moonless night. Walk into knee-deep water. Move your hands and watch the water light up like liquid stars. I spent three hours playing in the light, feeling like a kid discovering magic.

The Dark Side of Paradise

• Plastic waste is a growing problem
• Some dive operators damage coral
• Overtourism is hitting Havelock hard
• The indigenous situation is complex and tragic

But that's why going beyond the main spots matters. The less-visited islands remind you what we're supposed to be protecting.

Why the Andamans Changed Everything

I've been to beaches in 30 countries. I've done the full moon parties, the Instagram beaches, the resort paradises. The Andamans are different.

It's not just the empty beaches or the incredible diving. It's the feeling of being on the edge of the world. It's swimming in water so clear you forget you're swimming. It's having an entire island to yourself for an afternoon. It's the reminder that places like this still exist – barely.

Three weeks wasn't enough. I'm already planning my return, this time for a month. There are still islands I couldn't reach, reefs I didn't dive, beaches I only heard about from fishermen.

The Andamans don't need you. But if you're looking for island hopping that's still an adventure, for beaches without beach clubs, for diving without crowds – then maybe you need the Andamans.

Just remember: take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints, and for the love of all that's holy, respect the tribes. Paradise is fragile. Let's not be the generation that breaks it.